Cockpit Gratings - We need a smaller (!) boat ...

 ... or bigger gratings!

("We need a bigger boat", a reference to the film "Jaws", is a standing joke amongst the Pagan crew)

So having finished the router table setup, it was time to try it out on some relatively cheap pine board I had lying around.

The first thing I discovered was that it's easier to work from behind the carriage and push than the more obvious option of standing in front and pulling. 

The second thing I quickly discovered is that my cunning plan of routing the slots in the full width of the boards before ripping them lengthwise into individual rails doesn't work very well.

The problem is that the additional drag of the wide board over the bed of the router table makes it difficult to keep the carriage running true even with our cunning ball race track setup. On two out of three attempts, there was a wiggle part way through. I'm sure it could be made to work with further development and engineering (some means of keeping the runners from lifting up and twisting would be needed) however there's not a lot of advantage over routing the rails individually. It takes a bit longer but not enough to make spending any more time or money on the jig engineering worthwhile.

Ripping the rails out of the board, having cut off the failed slots, took minutes on the table saw and then I set about routing the slots into them. That takes a while and didn't do my back much good - I think I'll look at mounting the jig higher so I'm not having to bend over so much. Bearing in mind that cheap pine board is prone to chipping, the routing went extremely well and cleanly. 

I cut the rails I'd routed in half and did a dry fit. The interlocking rails took some gentle persuasion to go together but the fit wasn't too shabby.

The second dry run, after I'd spent a bit of time cleaning up the slots with a file, went much better and I then set about glueing up a test grating.

Some lessons were learnt along the way such as don't trim the excess off the rails until after glue up (really not sure where my head was at when I did that! I hadn't intended to do it that way round and it made things harder than they needed to be).

I also took note of the need to mark up the order and orientation of the rails during the dry fit more thoroughly than I did on the prototype.

And I think I need to lay in some slow setting wood glue, not an easy thing to find, as the readily available stuff all sets up in under ten minutes. Often that's a big advantage but on this job, when I get on to the full size gratings, I need plenty of time to get everything in place and clamped up.

Oh and clamping the full size gratings is going to present some challenges which I'm pondering.

Once the glue had set up, I hit the top surface and sides with the belt sander and then finished with a finer grit on the palm sander.

I'm pretty damn pleased with the end result!

It's not perfect, there's a few careless dings and I split out a bit on one of the rails on the backside. I also either need some sort of jig to hold the belt sander square ... or to hole the piece square to the belt sander ... when doing the edges. Either that or a bench mounted sander with mitre table (which is on my shopping list anyway).

That said, the fit and finish is considerably better than the factory made originals I'm replacing!

Another proof that prototyping is never a bad thing ... I realised I need to make the gratings up slightly thicker than the final finished thickness (18mm) to give me a decent amount of sanding allowance. The rough sawn boards are nominally 25mm and the usual planing allowance is 3mm per face which would result in 19mm. I think a 1mm sanding allowance would be about perfect so I need to tweak my cutting instructions to remind me to leave 1mm sanding allowance when I'm thicknessing the boards.

Anyway, if the finished gratings are as good as the prototype, I'll be a happy wood butcher. And I'm sure I can do better next time around with the benefit of experience gained.

There's probably going to be a bit of a hiatus on this project now. I've got other things to do over the next couple of weeks and then we've got over a fortnight on board Pagan at the end of the month when hopefully we'll get to go sailing before putting Pagan to bed for the winter.

Cockpit Gratings - router jig development

 Full disclosure ... there's absolutely nothing boaty below! There's also a lot of images

Anyway, one of the challenges of making  new gratings is the considerable number of halving joints that have to be cut in the rails. If each one was cut by hand the traditional way (saw and chisel), it would take a LOT of time 'cos there's no less than 696 of them on the gratings for Pagan!

Confucious he say that if the Gods had intended man to faff about cutting 696 halving joints the hard way, he wouldn't have invented power tools! Even so, it's not as simple as it seems. Each joint needs to be 22mm wide by 9mm deep and spaced on 44mm centres from the adjacent joints. The margin for error is small by woodworking standard - the longest rail is 508mm long and a 1mm error between joints would add up to being 15mm out at the middle (assuming, as I intend to do) starting from the ends to the middle. Needs to be a lot better than that.

I considered various methods...

Our American friends would tool up their table saw with a dado cutter set but they're not available in the UK and Europe because they're considered dangerous (and with good reason as to use them you have to remove the riving knife that prevents the workpiece closing up and grabbing the blade with potentially lethal consquences). That's a none starter then.

I contemplated and sletched designs for clamping the workpiece in a jig with a guide bar setup to use a hand held router with a 22mm cutter to cut the joints. That would have worked well enough I'm sure but then I came up with the notion of turning things on their head and fixing the router whilst moving the workpiece. In theory, that ought to be the simpler solution (in practice, I'm not sure that the first idea wouldn't, in the end, have been easier but hey ho).

So I sketched up a design for a very simple jig  ...

And built it ...

The base is two layers of 9mm MDF, the carriage is made of the same stuff. Underneath is mounted a fairly hefty router donated by my brother who no longer had a use for it.

(There's numerous videos on YouTube of similar jigs and there's off the shelf parts for building them at various levels of sophistication right up to the next best thing to a full spindle moulder setup. however they invariably use trim routers. Iroko, from which the new gratings will be made, is tough stuff and hard on cutting edges so I needed a powerful heavy duty router as the basis for the jig).

It sort of worked. Conceptually, it prooved I was on the right lines. However, it proved impossible to repeatedly keep the carriage tracking at 90 degrees to the router cutter head. I also found that trying to rout a halving joint at the end of a workpiece inevitably led to tear out. There were some other niggles too all of which added up to a case of back to the drawing board to come up with Mk.II

There's quite a lot to unpack here!

First significant change is the use of several 3d printed parts. My brother adapted a design he already had on file for ball bearing track guides as a solution to keeping the carriage square when using the jig. 

I also designed, and Glen 3d printed, a stop bar large enough to accomodate the full width of the Iroko boards. Based on test cuts with the Mk.I jig, I had concluded that it would be faster and more accurate to cut the halving joints into the boards before ripping them down into the individual rails.

I also reworked my cutting plan so that each rail is initially made 44mm too long with the excess to be cut off after the gratings are assembled. That avoids the problem of tearout when trying to run a cut at the end of the workpiece (at the cost of wasted timber but hey ho).

So having a design, and after a trip to Bodgit & Quit for more MDF, I set to making the thing ...

Step 1: Cut the two base plate pieces from a sheet of 9mm MDF

Steps 2 & 3: Cut the track slots and router bit clearance holes in the top plate

Step 4: Mark out and cut the recess for the router show in the bottom plate

Step 5: Glue the top and bottom plates together

Step 6: Mark the mounting holes for the router (bizarrely, only 3 of the 4 pre-drilled holes in the router shoe can be used as the 4th hole is fouled by the depth stop anvil)

Step 7. The holes were then countersunk on the top side of the base plate

Step 8: Mount the router and clamp the base plate in the old Workmate that will be used as as stand for the jig when in use.

(When not in use, the jig will be stored out of the way on a shelf).

Step 9: Cut the pieces for the carriage and step 10: glue them together ensuring they are accurately clamped at 90 degrees (the Mk.1 prototype was a bit of a failure at this stage. The Mk.II is as close to spot on as I'm likely to get!)

Step 11: Cut some reinfocing pieces and step 11; glue them in place

Step 12: Carefully measure, mark and fit the upper ball race rails 3d printed by my brother Glen.

It was vital at this stage that the rails were as close to parallel to each other as humanly possible. Measure many many times, screw down once!

Step 13: Fit the lower ball race rails with the same level of care and attention.

The rails were designed with slotted mountings to allow the positioning to be tweaked as necessary.  As it happens, it was barely neccessary and the carriage glides very nicely backwards and forwards without any racking or twisting

At this point, I realised I'd dropped a bit of a clanger and made the base too small to be able to easily clamp it or the carriage to the Workmate

Easily solved ... I made up two pieces of MDF per side glued together and then ...

... glued them to the base.

That gives me the option to clamp the base to the Workmate (although it seems to clamp well enough on the router shoe) and also to clamp the carriage in place in order to use the jig for other purposes.

At this point I did some test cuts into scrap wood and it was fortunate I did so as I swapped which side of the cutter the guide bar is set (the rotation of the cutter tends to throw the workpiece to the left so having the stop bar on that side prevents that)

The tricky bit now was routing out the mounting slot for the aforementioned stop bar. It needed to be as close to a 44mm offset as possible. Although a certain amount of adjustment is built in to the design, the closer the better to start with.

The trick here was to stick some masking tape onto the base and then superglue down some spare lengths of track carefully at the right spacing ...

... then the carriage could be run on the temporary tracks with the router cutter set to the correct height to cut the slot for the stop bar.

Cutter clearance slot on the left, stop bar slot on the right

Along the way, I'd routed a slot for an adjustable 3d printed hold down clamp (I forgot to take an photos, you'll be relieved to read!).

I also decided I needed to put in a couple of cutouts in the front face of the carriage to make it easier to hold the workpiece in place.

A template was cut out of MDF and temporarily fixed in place using the tape and superglue trick. My own router fitted with a guide wheel cutter then made short work of cutting out the hand holds.

The hand hold routed out and the template after being peeled off

Test cut time!

You can better see the hold down clamp in action and I've just cut the second slot using the stop bar in the first slot I cut

Measuring up, the spacing is spot on.

However, I'd failed to consider that the carriage is held slightly clear of the base plate by the ball races and that necessitated a reprint of the stop bar with the projection thinned down to 6mm instead of 9mm.

I also found that the wood screws securing the stop bar weren't gripping ...

The solution to that problem was to use M4 T nuts. In softwood, they'll bit in and end up flush with the surface of the wood but MDF isn't very compressible to I cut a shallow recess using a Forstner bit to make sure they'd be flush

And the finished router table in all it's glory!

The next step is to run some test cuts and, if necessary, adjust the stop bar to reduce the cumulative spacing errors to an acceptable level (assuming it's not already OK).

I'll experiment with taking some video of it in action but no promises on that front!

The end result has taken a fair bit longer, and cost somewhat more (about £40 not including the router and cutter) then I expected but having made it larger and more sophisticated than stricty necessary it will have a life beyond this one project.

That was the week (and a half) that was

 So having got Pagan back in her element and finding that, as half expected, one or more head bolts had failed to torque down, what happened next?

Simon rocked up on Saturday and we set about dealing with the stripped head bolt thread and it's partner in crime opposite. Although the second bolt had gone down to torque, two out of three of the bolts across the head at the aft end of the engine had now stripped (the centre bolt having already been helicoiled when we first rebuilt the engine) and we decided not to take any chances and do both of the outer bolts.

That was all done in an afternoon and everything put back together again. There's still a few outstanding periperhal jobs, the main ones being fitting a new and relocated engine stop cable and fitting a cooling system header tank and plumbing in the calorifier. These can, however, wait until later possibly even until the winter. We also have a low speed timing issue on the engine, which we suspect is long standing, which again isn't an immediate attention job as at normal running speeds the timing is fine. It won't do the engine any harm as long as we don't trundle around at below 1500rpm for hours on end and I can't imagine we'd ever do that.

Jane and I were then on a mission to turn Pagan inside out and put her back to being a cruising yacht instead of a caravan / workshop. During the course of that excercise, we'd determined that not only were our domestic batteries fried, so was the two or three year old engine battery. It wasn't taking or holding a charge and I've reached the conclusion that before it committed suicide, our defunct battery charger had taken out the domestic and engine batteries.

That meant a trip to Chelmsford to pick up a new No.1 (Engine) Battery from Halfords.I chose a reasonably priced 95a/h sealed lead acid battery, larger than really needed for the No.1 battery but it'll have to do double duty as I won't be fitting new domestic batteries until over the winter (we need more capacity than we can squeeze into the existing battery compartment and that means a new battery box in the port cockpit locker which isn't a quick job to create).

Finally, by Tuesday, we were ready to let go from the pontoon and go for a blat up and down the river within sight of the moorings. A good solid hour plus of zooming up and down and I was a very happy chappy.

We picked up our mooring on the second attempt and picked up where we'd left off on the immediate to-do list. The principal job now was sorting out the running rigging, bending on the sails and fitting the new sail covers.

She does look shipshape and seamanlike now she's sporting her full rig again!

That said, all of the running rigging needs to come off over the winter and be thoroughly cleaned. I don't think we need to replace anything, all the lines are sound, but it's all grungy and stiff.

The big test came on Saturday ...

Could we make it to Burnham-on-Crouch without breaking down?

Yes we could!

We probably got some funny looks motoring downriver when the sailing conditions were near perfect but this was an engine test run not a jolly. And she performed flawlessly finishing off with just about the nearest thing to a perfect marina docking manoeuvre we've ever managed.

We met up with Simon at The Old White Hart for a meal and beer where we were joined for drinks by our good friends Neal and Jos. It was nice to get out for the night but the fly in the ointment was an unfolding family crisis back at home. That had to be left in the hands of other family members overnight as there was nothing we could do about it!

Sunday saw us run back up to Fambridge again under motor. No funny looks this time as the wind was, in any case, due wrong blowing straight down the river. Given the overnight wind forecast and the need to unload the boat and get away as early as possible the next day, we decided to splash the cash and go alongside for the night.

We really do need to cut down on the amount of kit we take away with us as it takes way too much time and effort to cart it to and from the van to the boat! Anyway, by mid-morning we were ready for the off.

There was a stiff breeze blowing downriver and a bit of a chop running but we succeeded in picking up our mooring at the first attempt. Getting the second buoy tail aboard and made fast was a bit of an excercise though as it had wrapped itself around the riser chain. A bit of faffing about and we got it sorted and made fast.

All that remained was to shut down and switch off everything - seacocks closed, gas and electric off and isolated, all things that lock locked and that was that. A ride ashore on the trot boat and away home.

So ended a very pleasing eleven days. Pagan is back in commission and shapng up. I am feeling the love again, it's been sheer bloody mindedness that's got us through the last 12 months as a year ago we were on the ragged edge of calling it a day.

There's still a mahoosive to-do list but it's back to being things we planned and/or anticipated.

We're not sure exactly what our plans are for the rest of the summer and autumn as a combination of Jane's work rota being changed, yet again, and the aformentioned domestic crisis (a very elderly father who up until now has been able to care for himself but may now need someone present 24/7), mean that we're going to have to re-plan and change holiday bookings etc.

I'm hoping we can get out for a short cruise to somewhere other than the River Crouch before the season is over. We'll see.

We're also undecided about whether to haul out for the winter or leave her in. Hauling out is expensive but on the other hand it's not easy to do significant work on the boat when she's in the water. And by next spring there are several projects I want finished - the v-berth refit, fitting new anchoring gear including an electric winch and new domestic batteries and charger/inverter being the main ones.

Onwards and upwards ...

Splash!

 A hectic day today. Picked up Jane from the Big Shed at 06:00, drove down to the boat arriving 08:15 and got our heads down for a few Zzzzs.

Wiggy rocked up about 12ish to put us back in the water for the first time since last year.

It's always nerve wracking when the boat goes back in, the more so when you've drilled new holes in the bottom of the bolt. The moment the boat is lowered into the water, it's a mad dash round all the skin fittings etc. with a torch checking for leaks. And there was indeed a leak!

It was, however, a minor affair. The jubilee clips on the new raw water intake just needed tightening up further. No big deal and soon sorted. Then it was a tow round onto the river pontoon and make fast alongside.

Simon arrived and after carrying out further checks around the engine, it was time to fire her up. We had, of course, run her briefly whilst ashore (a bit naughty but needs must), now it was time to see if she'd start and run properly.

And happy days, she started and ran properly! The new cooling pump is rather effective, much more so than itd predecessor and the cunning bracket designed by Simon to engineer my cunning suggestion of turning the pump through 180 degrees (so that the impeller can be changed more easily) works a treat.

Then having run her up to operating temperature and let her cool back down a bit (per the manual) it was time to see if the head bolts would all torque down. We were expecting two or three of them to strip the threads as they hadn't felt great when initially torqued down a few weeks ago. And sure enough, one did.

It might be possible to sort it without taking the head off but neither Simon nor I feels 100% happy with doing that and for the sake of a new head gasket and a few extra hours work, tomorrow we'll pull the head off again and helicoil the stripped threads. In fact, we've had a thunk about it and collectively agreed that for the sake of an extra hour or two of drilling and tapping, we'll helicoil all the remaining threads and have done with it. It would be beyond frustrating to just do the one that's stripped and then have another one go when we're back to final torque down (hopefully on Sunday!). That would be a proper show stopper as Simon has to be elsewhere for a few days next week, we're not his only customers (hi Neal and Jos ☺)

So there we are for today. Floating, not sinking, running but not quite running in. I'm not downhearted, this was anticipated hence my having laid in the spare gaskets to do it if necessary.

Cockpit Gratings - the project - introduction and first steps

 So Pagan has a once nice set of Teak cockpit gratings. Sadly, however, they've seen better days!

To the left is the largest of the three gratings and as you can see it's in a state. Several of the rails have gone walkabout and an area to the left of the picture had become so rotten that my foot all but went through it when I hopped down into the cockpit a while back. That had been fixed with a temporary piece of plywood.

Underneath, the frame joints are starting to come apart and there's rot and even some "nail" sickness (actually screw sickness) where the steel screws have corroded and damaged the surrounding wood.

As a temporary measure to keep us going, I stripped out all the old grating cores and screwed split lengths of decking timber to the existing frames. It's practical but not especially attractive and, no, you're not getting a photo of them!

I was hoping that the main frames would be salvegable but they're too far gone. I could also buy the gratings to cut to size and fit within either the existing frames or new frames but they're eye wateringly expensive. And I have a fancy for a serious woodworking project so I going to set to and make all new gratings entirely from scratch.

It's not going to be my first woodworking rodeo, I've done a fair bit of wood butchery in the past and I've got a reasonable collection of tools. I've also now got a space to work in, albeit it's not exactly a huge space, having demolished the rotten wreck of what had been my brother's shed when he lived here and replaced it with a new 11'x8' plastic shed (in hindsight, I wish I'd spent more money on a good timber shed - the plastic shed is OK-ish but it's not great). I've got power and lighting to it and a security system although I won't be keeping valuable equipment in there (that'll have to be moved to and fro as needed).

So what's going to be involved? 

I'll post in more detail about the design stage in a seperate post as it's quite involved but simply put there's the timber frame around the outside, a sub-frame underneath that which carries the actual grating, two upright rails down either side underneath upon which the gratings stand and, the complex bit, the actual gratings themselves which are made of interlocking rails.

You can sort of see how they work in the picture of the smallest of the gratings which also happens to be the one in the "best" condition (as it's only got one loose rail, so far!)

To recreate the gratings will mean cutting a lot of rabbets in a lot of pieces of wood and for that we're going to (try to) work smarter rather than harder by building a custom routing jig. In fact, I've already built a Mk.1 version (of which more anon) which has been both a proof of concept (in that it sort of worked) and highlighted a number of issues which we're working to resolve.

The old gratings are made of Teak and I wish I could stick with that. Getting hold of good quality teak in any significant quantity is not easy and when you can get it the price is horrendous. What's more, the FSC certified teak that is available is almost all African Teak, not Burma Teak, and whilst it is similar it isn't considered suitable for boat decks (and therefore it's unlikely to be suitable for cockpit gratings).

So I'm going to be using poor man's teak, more properly known as Iroko. Whilst not quite as durable, it has many of the same qualities as teak and looks very similar. Plus, it's readily available at a vaguely sensible price! In fact, I've already bought and collected it ... or most of it as I'm going to need one more board as a result of a bit of a process rethink. 

The timber is supplied rough sawn that being considerably cheaper than buying it PAR (Planed All Round). And happily I have a small planer / thicknesser with which to process the timber down to exactly the sizes I require. Or I had until I blew it up! In fairness to the poor machine, it had been left sitting on the floor of a damp garage for several years and frankly it was a miracle it worked at all even if it only did so briefly. Replacing it with a new one, the same as the old one, was not prohibitively expensive and the old one has been stashed away as a source of replacement drive belts (prone to snapping) and what have you.

I have an old basic table saw which, with a new blade fitted, is working fine (so far, touch wood!), a sliding compound radial chop saw I acquired off my brother who has also supplied a hefty router which will be used on the aforementioned routing jig, a set of bar clamps and a whole crate of saws, planers, sanders etc. along with chisels, mallets, drills, plus cutters ... in short, I've got most of what I need and what I haven't got I can either manage without or buy for prices I can feasibly afford.

Which brings me back to preparing the workspace ... I won't kid on that it's anything even vaguely approaching a workshop! It's compact and bijou but it's enough. I've got some racking space down one side for storage and two workbenches on the other side.

One, which can be seen above right, is a cheap new bench I've bought to be used as my "engineering" bench. That bench will likely feature in future projects such as a new switch panel, new boom end fittings (how they're going to be made is being hotly debated currently!) and others.

To the left of it is an old woodworking bench my Dad acquired off his friend Richard who in turn had acquired it off his Dad. We didn't give it much thought or even think that much of it until, after moving it from the aforementioned damp garage into the shed and perusing several, mostly American, woodworking YouTube videos, I realised there was rather more to it than initially met the eye.

The planing stop after removal

It turns out to be a good example of a classic "English" style joiners bench and it was probably originally the personal bench of a professional joiner. Whilst on the smaller end of the size scale, these benchs were never huge being quite narrow and only 5'  to 7' long. This one is a 5' example. The giveaways that it's professional kit are twofold - it has a very fancy rebated sprung loaded planing stop and an equally fancy fitting for a holdfast clamp.

The holdfast fitting, removed and upside down

Sadly, the actual holdfast clamp is long gone, I wish I had it! But a cheap holdfast was £12 off Amazon and works surprisingly well as I shall demonstrate later.

I removed these fittings because there was one major problem with the table top - a slight hump in the middle which meant work rocked around on it.

I didn't want to go berserk and plane the whole thing down to a perfect finish but I did need it fairly flat.

So I attacked is judiciously with the planer and the orbital sander until the hump was no more ...

Then I carefully cleaned out the rebates for the fittings with a chisel until they sat back just below the surface of the bench ... which they didn't quite before I started anyway - and reinstalled the planing stp and the holdfast dog hole.

The planing stop springs up as you undo the screw and holds a workpiece as you push against it, usually for planing the top surface as the name suggests.

The holdfast clamp is a primitive beast! You simply drop the leg down the hole with the pad on top of the workpiece then whack it on the top of the leg with a big hammer!

It works!

To remove it, just whack it again, this time on the side at the top of the leg, and it pulls back out. It looks Medieval ... and it is! If not older as there's evidence of bascially the same device being used by carpenters all the way back into antiquity and beyond.

Sneaking into the background there is a modern metal tail vice I added the other day. This style of bench didn't usually have a tail vice but I wanted one. I just need to add some wooden face plates to it and it'll be ready for use.

The original wooden face vice has had it I'm afraid. There's no end of play in the wooden threaded screws, the handles have both broken and it's beyond salvation. I shall be replacing it with a cast metal face vice when I make up my mind which one I'm going to go for!

I shall also likely be making a few other mods to the bench. I'm probably going to replace the backboard (which is almost certainly not original) with a taller one to which I can attach some storage for screws etc. and I'll almost certainly be adding some additional dog holes - one or more on the facing board would aid with working longer pieces of timber and there may be a need for additional holes in the worktop but I shall hold off on that until the need becomes apparent.

I forgot to mention that on a pre-existing paved area out front of the shed there's a larger heavy duty outdoor work bench which doubles up as Dad's potting bench and somewhere I can set up my table saw and thicknesser provided it's not raining.

So there we have it for now. This is going to be a slow burn project, I don't expect to finish the gratings for some time (months rather than weeks) as there's still a lot of work to do on various aspects of the design and process. Especially the process!

Progress!

 So all in all, a good day and much progress made

The mystery of the perenially blocking up cockpit drain has been solved. Removing a cut cable tie from the end of the hose at the seacock end then released a load of crud that it was retaining. Now I need to finish off lapping in the seacocks and refit them

I couldn't get the old anode bolts out due to a lack of a 17mm tube socket but Simon "Engines" Dunn saved the day 'cos he had the right tools for the job. I did comment on the fact that I was paying him to watch me undo the bolts with his tools! The anode bolts needed replacing as they were corroding quite badly and, indeed, once we got them out it was clear that the sealant had failed and water was starting to get in behind the plates. Much worse and we would, technically at least, have been sinking!

Then we got back onto the main event - fitting the new intake seacock, water strainer and raw water pump. In no particular order, the new intake skin fitting, seacock and elbow all went in with no issues (other than cleaning up afterwards 'cos Simon and I are both inclined to use far more Sika than strictly necessary - better too much and a clean up than too little and have to start again).

We had a brains trust meeting about the location of the new basket water strainer and implemented Plan B. That meant some wood butchery to make up a backing spacer. Happily, I had a spare piece of Utile left over from previous projects that just needed cutting down to length

The raw water pump is a bit more complicated as I decided I wanted it turned through 180 degrees so that the impeller housing is facing into the cabin. As originally fitted, changing the impeller on a cold engine would have been a right royal pain in the bottom working blind with barely enough space between the engine, the pump and the alternator to get one hand in. On a hot engine, and if you need to change the impeller in a hurry you can bet it'll be a *very* hot engine, it would have been well nigh impossible

So Simon has made up a steel plate to mount the pump forward of it's original position and I made another timber spacer block from a nice piece of scrap hardwood that's been looking for a purpose in life for ages. We're agreed that we need to fettle up a bracing strut to stop the plate bouncing around but we're nearly there

The only problem that leaves me with is that I'll have to relocate the saloon blown air heating outlet as the pump is now in the way. I'm not worrying about that right now, I have options (it'll probably get re-routed out of the engine bay altogether and run through the nav table seat if I go ahead with relocating the battery bank that is currently under the seat elsewhere)

Tomorrow, my mission is to clean up and make ready to fit new anode bolts which will then be a quick job when Simon comes back on Saturday* to finish the cooling system plumbing. That, then, will be him done on Pagan until we're back in the water and can run the engine in.

I'll do some pics in due course, maybe. P'raps.

The venerable Merc is out of intensive care ...

So after a fairly intense four days (ok, actually four half days but there's a limit on how long even a highly trained gymnast like Simon "Engines" Dunn (in joke) can spend in a cramped engine bay) ...

SHE LIVES!

The venerable Mercedes OM636 aboard S/Y "Pagan" is officially a runner again after a complete top end recon / rebuild and the repair or replacement of most of the marinsation peripherals

And once she'd warmed up a bit and settled in, she sounded good! Better. in fact, than she ever sounded before

From memory ...

The head has been skimmed (requiring 8 thou taking off it which is a lot and close to the limit of the possible)
The valve seats have been recut
The valve stem tips have been reground to profile
All of the rocker arm faces have been sintered and reground to profile
The top face of the engine block has been lapped and the bores honed
The injectors have been sent away and serviced
The alloy cooling system elbows and mainfolds have all been replaced (they were corroded to within an inch of failure, every one!) as have the heat exchanger end caps (which were also on their way out)
The heat exchanger core has been re-soldered at one end where it was likewise on the point of catastrophic failure
The cooling water cap flange has been soldered back onto the cooling water tank (when we took the cap off, the flange came with it ... it ain't supposed to do that!!!)

The valve clearances have been set and the head torqued down but both will require re-doing once she's been run back in. Simon had to helicoil one head bolt and has his concerns about whether three others will go down to final torque without stripping (a nuisance but probably do-able without all the time, trouble and expense of taking the head of again. We shall see, it is what it is)

In the process, Simon has also fitted the new parallel glow plugs I bought about 8 years ago and bottled out of trying to fit for fear of the old crappy series glow plugs not coming out in one piece. My concerns were justified as it turns out given that it took Simon the best part of half a day on the bench in his workshop to get all four out and clean up the threads. If I had tried to fit them it would have gone Pete Tong in a big way!!! (As originally supplied, the OM636 had series glow plus with a dropper resistor giving a measly 1.5v across each plug. Hnece the engine needing anything between 30 seconds and 90 seconds of pre-heat to persuade it to start. The parallel glow plugs operate at nominally 12v and she needed about 5 seconds of pre-heat to fire up from cold after 9 months of being in pieces. I think that's a bit of an improvement)

And although not yet plumbed in until after we've given the cooling system a really thorough flush (as salt water had got in there due to the aforementioned dodgy bits on the cooling system), the take-offs for connecting the closed cooling circuit to the calorifier have been freed off (I couldn't shift them, it took a fair bit of heat on the bench to shift the one on the heat exchanger, the other is into an alloy cooling elbow we've replaced and was not coming out at all)

We took an executive decision yesterday that neither of us could live a moment longer with the bloody awful location of the raw water intake sea cock and strainer basket. It's the old fashioned small strainer mounted directly to the sea cock and it's at the aft end of the engine bay which is hard to get at with the boat ashore and would be an absolute nightmare to access if the intake got blocked in any sort of seaway or emergency situation. I've been planning to re-locate it to a better position ever since we bought Pagan in 2016 and it can wait no longer.

So the existing small bronze strainer is going and we're going to fit a new seacock under the galley floor connected to a decent Vetus basket strainer mounted at the forward end of the engine bay where it's easily accessible. As the existing seacock itself is perfectly serviceable and I like the notion of having a plan B in case the main intake gets blocked (which has happened to me twice), we're going to plumb the existing seacock to a T into the new raw water feed to that should the primary intake suck up a solid plug of weed we have a "get out of jail free" card to play

And we've also decided that whilst we're at it we're going (or to be more accurate Simon is going) to completely rebuild the raw water pump with new bearings, seals, etc. etc. It doesn't look in great nick externally to be honest and it's been pumping seawater around for 45 years so I doubt it looks any better inside! Makes sense to get it refurbished now rather than have it fail in a few years time in some remote part of the Scottish isles or summat

We've also examined all the other seacocks and to Simon's surpise and my relief deemed them all fit for ongoing service.

Simon is also quite keen on the fitting of a flexible shaft coupling and I get where he's coming from. It would without doubt be a good idea but I'm taking it under advisement at the moment as a possible for next winter

My to-do list before we can launch ...

Service all the seacocks
Replace the hull anode and remake the bonding connections
Replace the prop anode and grease the prop
Sort out the permanent wiring to the new glow plugs
Do something (temp or perm) about the dead battery charger
Replace the faulty bilge pump
Apply two coats of barnacle food (a.k.a. anti-foul)

I also, less urgently, need to rework the fuel delivery system plumbing and valve work so that we can properly switch between the port and starboard fuel tanks (it all got messed with whilst trying to diagnose what had gone wrong last year and we've currently got a lash up feed from the starboard tank only)

So hopefully, boatyard willing, we'll be back in the water in about a month. Then it'll be some fairly intensive engine running in including at least two complete flushings of the freshwater cooling system and an oil change. We also need to get the standing rigging properly set up - it never happened after it was replaced two years ago due to the ongoing issues with diesel bug and then the head gasket failing on the engine - and sort out the mess that the running rigging is currently in

Then we've got a bit of a hiatus due to Jane's work schedule before maybe, just maybe, actually getting to go for a local cruise in August. September, like July, is a total bust and by the time Jane has time off work in October it's probably going to be the end of a very short season

There's a lot to then do before next year, mainly electrical stuff. I know what charger / inverter we're going to be fitting and I've jsut got to decide on where the new domestic battery bank is going (I can only squeeze two batteries into the current location and I want to increase the capacity of the battery bank by at least 50%, preferably doubling it). I think I know what I'm going to do with that but it means some wood butchery in the port cockpit locker

And I think I've finally got a workable plan for fitting a half decent amount of solar power but more (much more!) on that anon

Oh and I'm also in the early stages of designing and making all new cockpit gratings. I've got the space and the tecnhology at home to do that and I've finished the design work. I just need to order and collect the rough sawn Iroko planks I need and crack on with it. They might not be done for this season so in the next couple of weeks I'll nail some decking timber over the existing frames as a temporary solution

Boats eh? It never, ever, stops

And finally ... aplogies for the lack of pics and/or video. Even though I was just the oily rag apprentice assistant to the master engineer that is Simon "Engines" Dunn, I'm knackered! And it all got a bit intense yesterday afternoon as we were rapidly running out of time as I had to be away by no later than 7pm. I made it, just!

Amd finally # 2 ... it is hard to put into words the overwhelming relief and joy Jane and I are feeling at the present moment. There's no ducking the fact that going for a rebuild of the OM636 was a gamble which might not have paid off. It was entirely possible that we could end up two or three grand out of pocket and still not have a serviceable and, above all, reliable, engine. Without a doubt, a nice shiney new Beta 35 would have been the preferable option but financially it was a complete non-starter. We simply couldn't afford it (and given that the current market value of a W33 in good order is not much more than a new engine would have cost, it's debatable whether it could be justified even if we could). Even a suitable second-hand engine would have put a severe crimp in our financial plans potentially committing Jane to another year in work before we get to sail away and live the dream. We're not out of the woods just yet but the signs and portents are extremely promising.

Another day, another dollar

 Time goes by dear reader and I'm still only very intermittently updating the blog

Although, in truth, there hasn't been much incentive to post

However, things are progressing ...

After one or two hiccups along the way, all of the engineering work has been completed. The head has been skimmed, the valve tips etc. reprofiled, the heat exchanger repaired and, crucially, the rockers refaced and reprofiled (which was the big worry as we weren't sure whether it would be sucessful).

A long list of parts has been ordered and Simon will soon be ready to start putting things back together again.

Not sure exactly when we'll be doing the rebuild but it should be sometime next month.

Once we know whether we have a runner in the engine department, I need to start looking at addressing a long list of other things that need to be tackled but all things being equal and with everything crossed we might just get some sailing in this year.

It'll be local stuff only, definitely nothing ambitious.

I'm hoping that once we get onto an upward trajectory my inclingation to keep things up to date will return.